Fashion

Save the date! Martin Margiela is back

Not as a designer. As an artist.
Reading time 3 minutes
© Martin Margiela — Lafayette Anticipations/Mubi

From April 15 to July 25, Parisian art space Lafayette Anticipations, located in the famous Marais quarter will become a home for Martin Margiela’s debut with an exhibition of his works “Martin Margiela”.

Famous Belgian designer, deconstructivist, and fashion revolutionary will exhibit photos, sculptures, and installations that have not been published before. On their website Lafayette Anticipations notes:

“The show champions the idea that Martin Margiela has always been an artist whose work has been permanently on display both inside and outside the art world.”

According to the authoritative media WWD, most of the exhibits were created in the studios of the art space, an area of 24,000 square feet, designed by Rem Koolhaas’s agency OMA, who is a Dutch architect, Pritzker Architecture Prize laureate, innovator of modern architecture himself.

Martin Margiela started his design career in 1984. A few years after graduating from the Royal School of Fine Arts in Antwerp, he moved to Paris and became an assistant of the famous French designer, the main freak of the fashion world, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The Artist Is Absent

In the short film “The Artist Is Absent”, directed by a New York filmmaker Alison Chernick for Yoox, Jean-Paul Gaultier recalls how he was shocked when he first saw Martin's sketches:

“I knew that he could do something great but I didn’t imagine at which point it should be great. It was further. I was not his teacher because he didn’t need any teacher.”
The Artist Is Absent: A Short Film On Martin Margiela

4 years later, he founded his own eponymous fashion house Maison Martin Margiela and held 41 incredible shows in 20 years.

By shocking and surprising the public with his approach to creating collections and shows, as well as the brand presentation as a whole, Martin changed fashion and left a huge legacy, which is still regularly reflected in modern collections.

Now John Galliano is the creative director of Maison Margiela. Martin left his own brainchild in 2009.

Martin Margiela. In His Own Words

After his fashion retirement, the most mysterious and reserved designer Martin Margiela reminded of himself only a few times. 2019 was the year when an hour and a half documentary "Martin Margiela. In His Own Words”, filmed by German director Rainer Holsemer was released.

It features interviews with Jean-Paul Gaultier, Karin Roitfeld, trend forecaster Lee Edelcourt, fashion critic Katy Horin, and fashion historian Olivier Sayard.

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

It is notable that Martin initiated the creation of the film while also taking an active part in creating a retrospective of his design history himself. Remaining consistent and true to his views, he does not appear in the frame. But we see his hands and hear his voice, which helps us to immerse ourselves in the wonderful world of Martin Margiela even more.

In the film, you can see the roots — Martin’s childhood and youth archives, which were preserved by his mother. And this spring (fingers crossed!) we will have the opportunity to see something completely new. Mark the date on the calendar, be patient, and wait.

Collage: Lesya Pakharyna

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